When Choosing Flea Medicine, Consider a Natural Flea Treatment for Pets

If you have a dog you know how important flea medicine is for your animal. There are many types of flea treatment for pets that you can use. Most people use the products that are recommended to them by the vet. Some of the products that vets recommend are Advantage, Revolution and Frontline. However, these may not be the right ones for you to use with your dog, and with the dog fleas that bother them. The flea medicine that you choose should be something that you feel comfortable using.

One of the ideas that are catching on with a lot of pet owners is the natural flea treatment. This can be much safer for your pet and your family. When you use the natural treatments you dont have to worry about any harmful chemicals for your dog. Besides finding the right flea treatment for pets, there are some other things that you will want to do that will help with your dogs flea problem.

When using natural flea treatment for your pet you will want to go to a pet store that carries dog flea treatment products that are made from one hundred percent natural ingredients. These products are very effective for getting rid of fleas and they dont contain any chemicals that can harm your dog or your family.

The natural flea treatment products that you will want to get are natural powders, shampoos, sprays and a flea brush. You will also want to look for a collar that will help to keep the fleas away.

Besides the natural treatments you will want to make sure that you keep your dog clean. Give them a bath up to once a week if necessary in the flea season, and brush them daily. You will also want to make sure that you keep your house clean since fleas can get into your house. You want to make sure that you vacuum your carpet and wash anything that your dog sleeps on.

Before vacuuming your floors you should sprinkle some powdered diatomaceous earth or powdered borax on the carpet. This will kill any dog fleas plus the eggs. You should leave it on your carpet for a couple of minutes and then vacuum. Be sure that your kids and dog are not around when you do this. Although these products are natural and non-toxic, it’s advisable not to breathe them in. And don’t forget that your kids and dogs are lower to the floor than you are.

One other thing that you can do to help with the problem of fleas is to mow your lawn often. You should, for preference, also keep any trees or bushes trimmed. This will make it more difficult for the fleas to get anywhere near your dog.

The flea medicine that you choose is up to you. However, the natural flea treatment is certainly an option that is healthier and safer for your dog and your family. Just make sure that you use the flea treatment for pets that feels right for you and your beloved pet.

Healthy Happy Dogs is a resource containing a wealth of information on keeping your dog healthy.

You’ll find information there on natural flea treatment products and what types of flea medicine are best for the health of your pet.

So find out how to get rid of fleas naturally, at Healthy Happy Dogs.

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If you own a pet you will have fleas in the house from time to time. All dogs pick up fleas, ticks, and chiggers at one time or another, usually during the warm weather months.

Even though there are more than 2,000 known species and subspecies of fleas, only one class of flea called the cat flea Ctenocephalides Felisis to blame for almost all the fleas found on cats and dogs in the United States. Although many species of fleas feed primarily on one type of animal, the common cat and dog flea will readily take blood from a variety of animals, including man.

Most of the animal owners face a real challenge in tackling ticks, fleas and lice which infests their animals resulting in reduced productivity and health. As with flea shampoos, when using a flea dip, always begin on the dog’s head, face, and ears so the fleas won’t run for shelter in those hard to reach areas. Since the 1980s, pharmaceutical companies have developed many new chemical treatments for controlling or preventing fleas and other external parasites, and there are some great products available today in the form of flea collars, pills, oral liquids, spray-on formulas, and special shampoos. There are wonderful flea collars and other products on the market for your pets now that work terrific in keeping the fleas off.

If you find fleas within your house, chances are that the gardens and yards would be infected as well and treatment of these areas need to be carried out as well as part of your flea control plan. If your cat or dog has been infected with fleas its a good idea to clean and vacuum the areas where your cat likes to sit and sleep.

In ideal conditions, adult fleas hatch from their cocoon in as little as 5 days, although they can live in the cocoon for up to 5 months. Larva – flea larvae feed on organic material in the environment and on the droppings from adult fleas. In choosing a flea killer look on the labels and make sure that they kill adult fleas and also make flea eggs sterile.

In order to prevent dog fleas from infesting on your pets or in your home, you have to be careful to maintain the cleanliness of your pets and home. To succeed in getting rid of fleas, it all boils down to diligently following an integrated plan whereby you need to treat both your pets and the premises at the same time. In order to properly rid you home and pets of fleas you will treat the infestation as a whole.

Making sure your pet is free from flea,you will surely be able to enjoy the company of your pet and keep your home safe. When you know how to get rid of fleas in your home, youll be able to rest much easier.

Michelle Johnson is highly respected in her community for her knowledge about dogs. Their are many questions dog owners have in taking proper care of their dogs. For questions and more information on dog care visit her blog at: http://rustydogblog.blogspot.com

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Understanding Dog Fleas: How Fleas Breed & Affect Your Dog’s Health

Fleas belong to the insect order Siphonaptera. They are common pests and may attack many mammals, including man. They can be a year round problem because they infest not only pets but also the home of the owner. Because of this, treatment of the pet alone may only temporarily solve a flea infestation.

Although many species of fleas feed primarily on one type of animal, the common cat and dog flea will readily take blood from a variety of animals, including man. Flea infestations of pets and their homes will most likely involve the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis and occasionally the dog flea, C. canis.

Fleas are small (2 to 4 mm in length), brownish to black insects which are characteristically flattened from side to side. Adults are wingless and capable of jumping relatively long distances. Adults feed exclusively on blood with their piercing-sucking mouthparts. When not actively feeding, adult fleas often hide in locations frequented by the host animal such as your dog bedding, sofas, or carpeted areas.

The common cat and dog fleas breed throughout the year. After feeding and mating, the female deposits her eggs, usually on the host. Several eggs are laid daily and up to several hundred over a lifetime. Eggs normally fall off the host into bedding material or similar areas and hatch within two weeks.

Flea eggs accumulate in areas where the host spends most of its time. In addition, adult fleas defecate small pellets of digested blood which also drop off into the environment. A flea comb will often gather this fecal matter at the base of the tines providing a good sign of flea infestation. The combination of white flea eggs and black dried blood specks may appear as a sprinkling of salt and pepper where an infested animal has slept.

Fleas undergo complete metamorphosis, that is, they pass through four developmental stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. Immature fleas do not resemble adults at all.

Flea larvae are tiny, light colored, and, worm-like, without legs. They feed primarily on various debris and organic material including the droppings of the adults which contains digested blood. Flea larvae occur indoors and outdoors, wherever the eggs have fallen off the host. In houses, flea larvae live in carpeting, furniture, animal bedding and other protected areas with high humidity. Flea larvae also live outdoors in areas where animals spend time such as under porches in and around dog houses, etc.

Because flea larvae depend on the adults fecal pellets of dried blood as a food source, they cannot live in lawns or other outdoor areas unless the pet visits those areas enough to provide this food.

Depending on the species of flea and environmental conditions the larvae will pupate in one week to several months. The pupa is contained within a loose silken cocoon which is often covered by bits of debris. Under average conditions, the life cycle of the flea normally requires between 30 and 75 days but may take much longer. Adult fleas inside the cocoon, called pre-emerged fleas, will stay in that condition for weeks to months if no external cues from a host is available.

However, when disturbed by the presence of a host such as vibrations or carbon dioxide from exhaled breath, the fleas emerge simultaneously and attack the host. This is why it is possible to return to a house or apartment that has been empty for months and find it full of fleas.

When the normal host is available, fleas may feed several times a day but they are capable of surviving extended periods of starvation. In household situations, the normal host is a cat or dog. However, if the normal host is removed, starved fleas will readily seek other sources of blood and more often than not, man is the alternate host. In severe infestations, fleas will attack humans even though the normal host is present.

Certain species of fleas have been known to transmit such diseases as bubonic plague and murine typhus. These have never been a major problem. The major problems with fleas is as a nuisance pest of pets. The irritation and itching from flea bites results in scratching and potential secondary infection. Fleas may also transmit the double-pored dog tapeworm to dogs and cats.

Finally, persistent attacks from fleas can cause severe allergic responses in some people and pets. Once sensitized, a single flea bite may produce symptoms including hair loss, usually around the base of the tail, dermatitis, and intense itching. In worse cases, puppies and young kittens can also died from serious fleas infestations.

With proper flea management knowledge, flea problems will not be a big issue and can be battle and win over easily.

Moses Chia is the webmaster of DogsObedienceTraining.com. He provides more helpful information on dog obedience training, dog training book reviews and dog illness symptoms interpretation that you can learn in the comfort of your home on his website. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.

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So you have discovered evidence that your dog has these annoying little pests they call fleas, and now you have no idea how to get them out of your house and home, this article will talk your through the main ways to get rid of these fleas from your dogs coat and from your home.

Getting rid of fleas is no easy task as many other dog owners will tell you, but the chances are that fleas will happen through either another dog coming to play with yours or just picking them up from playing amongst damp fine gravel or sand where fleas like to live and breed.

So let’s take you through the easiest and best ways to rid of theses pests.

The first step is to take your dog or pet to the vet and have the fleas professionally identified to avoid giving your dog the wrong treatment, and get professional advice on possible new products that are on the market.

After this, the vacuum cleaner should come out. This is a very effective way of getting rid of many of the pupae, larvae or eggs that may be lurking beneath the surface of your carpet. Do this often and it will reduce the number of fleas quickly and easily.

The next step is to use household insecticide to clear your house of any flea related growths that your vacuum cleaner may have missed. Although I do not encourage insecticide and other chemicals near your dog or family this is one case where it is vital for getting rid of fleas. Always read the labels carefully and get a well known or professionally recommended product.

After the initial insecticide process and being careful to reach every possible area and corner you may want to insecticide your garden to ensure full removal of fleas, the garden could be more of a problem than the house, and could be where the flea problem began so be sure to target fine gravel or sandy areas where fleas may be living.

Your dog is the next obvious step and there are hundreds of products perfectly safe for your dog that will rid him/her of the annoying itchiness. Go to your nearest pet shop or vet and they should have sufficient products that will help.

After all this, you may think that the flea problem has gone forever but there may still be pupae that has survived the insecticide due to their protective cocoon, taking the same measurements as noted above two weeks later, should help the full removal of all things flea related and your dog will be able to sleep again.

If the problem persists, please contact your vet or other professional advice.

For more information on Dog Behavior Training take a look at Dog-Behavior-Training.co.uk

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It’s on every dog (pet) owner’s agenda to protect and see to it that their pet dog has the best possible opportunity to stay healthy. No matter how hard you try there are however certain threats that exist that tend to make the goal of keeping our pets healthy a major challenge. We as humans unfortunately are not immune since some of these same health threats tend to be our enemies as well.

External parasites such as, fleas, Ticks, Lice, as well as different types of Mites are the culprits that tend to threaten the health of our pets (dogs, cats). We too are also victims since the choice of food seems to be (blood). Unfortunately these parasites can transfer themselves in many cases from our pets to us. Parasites of these types find a haven (food and shelter) among our pets mainly due to their fur which makes it a perfect place for them to live and to feed.

The parasites mentioned above are the most common that plague our pets and usually causes adverse reactions in your pets (dogs, cats) etc.typically, itching and inflamed skin, a dull coat, and bald spots. In advanced cases, your dog may develop anemia (blood loss) and become generally debilitated (particularly if he or she is very young, very old, or suffering from another condition).

Many of these external parasites carry secondary or internal parasites of which can be transfered to our pets during times of feeding (extracting blood) from their pet hosts, or humans also if bitten. Some of the diseases that these parasites can transfer are: The tapeworm (which causes constipation and flatulence) generally carried by fleas, and ticks can cause a variety of much more serious problems like Lyme’s disease and paralysis in pets.

Out of the parasites mentioned above Fleas is the number 1 most common pest. They’re small, jumping insects that are light brown in color, it’s a little hard to see them because they move very quickly! Note: Although there is no blood in the carpeting in the home, fleas can still spread throughout the home by living and multiplying in the carpet probably because of it’s close resemblance to the fur of our pets.

Fleas live off your dog’s blood. The life cycle of a flea moves very rapidly from stage one (egg) to stage four (adult flea), which means they’re capable of multiplying with staggering rapidity.

There is no mistaking a flea infestation on your pet (dog, cat). A dog with a flea infestation will scratch almost constantly, often at areas that fleas seem to favor: the ears, the base of the tail, the belly, and the stifle (the webbing of soft skin between the thigh and the abdomen).

It’s actually the saliva of the flea that causes the irritation, not the bite itself, and some dogs have a genuine allergy to this saliva (as opposed to a standard irritation). Dogs with allergies suffer much more significant negative reactions to a flea infestation, and usually develop “hot spots”.

These hot spots are areas of sore, inflamed, flaking, bleeding, and infected skin, caused by the flea saliva and your pet dog’s own reaction to it. Bald patches will sometimes develop too, from repeated scratching and ongoing inflammation.

If you think your pet (dog, cat) has fleas, you can confirm your suspicions by taking a closer look at his skin: you probably won’t be able to see the fleas themselves, but you should be able to see what looks like ground pepper (a thin sprinkling of fine black grains) on his skin. This is flea dirt (poop).

If you groom him with a flea comb (which is like a fine-tooth comb), try wiping it on a paper towel: if red blotches show up on the towel, you know that your dog has fleas (on a white background like a paper towel, flea poop shows up red: since fleas subsist on blood, their poop is colored accordingly).

An adult flea lays hundreds of eggs per day. Each egg will then become an adult flea, which lay hundreds more eggs of its own. One flea can become a major problem very quickly!

Fleas actually spend a small amount of time on your pet dog, and the rest of their time leaping through your house laying eggs and feeding on human blood, it’s not enough to just treat your pet dog: you also have to target his bedding, the entire house, all human bedding, and the yard (yes, fleas lay eggs all through the yard, too. Even if it’s cold outside, you’re not necessarily off the hook: cold weather doesn’t kill flea eggs, it just puts them into a state of hibernation. The eggs will still hatch as soon as it gets warm enough outside.)

You’ll need a broad-spectrum treatment which kills not only the adult fleas (which are the ones that bite), but also any developing fleas, and the eggs.

Prevention is definitely the best cure – you should keep your dog’s flea treatments up to date with the use of a calendar, and use a treatment that’s prescribed by the vet. Off-the-shelf treatments aren’t recommended, since different dogs require different strengths depending on their size, age, and activity levels. A particular benefit of prescribed flea treatment is that most are also designed to prevent other parasites (like mites, ticks, and heartworm) from affecting your pet dog.

If your dog already has fleas, you have two options: You can ‘bomb’ the house and yard with a flea-pesticide. These come as foggers (which coat each room, and the yard, in a fine mist of pesticide) and sprays (which are applied manually to each surface throughout the house and yard), and although they’re very effective in killing fleas and eggs, there’s one major drawback: they’re highly toxic to humans, dogs, and the environment. Depending on your priorities, this is probably the quickest solution to a flea problem (and will effectively wipe out the eggs, too) but if you have anyone in the house with allergies or a health condition – including pets! – you might want to think again.

A more health-friendly alternative is to target your pet dog with a topical anti-flea solution prescribed by the vet (like Advantage or Revolution), and to rigorously clean the house on a regular basis until the flea problem has gone. This means vacuuming each room thoroughly each day – put a flea collar in with the vacuum bag to kill any fleas that get sucked up – and wash all human and dog bedding in hot water as often as you can (once every day or every two days is recommended). You’ll be able to tell when the problem’s gone because your dog won’t be scratching, and his coat will be clear of flea dirt when you inspect it.

By no means should you use multiple products on your pet dog it’ll make them sick, since you’ll be overloading their system with toxins. Don’t forget to treat all the animals in the house at the same time: cat and dog fleas are interchangeable, and if one animal has fleas, they all will have them, even if some are not displaying the symptoms.

Flea collars are no longer recommended as a safe option for flea prevention, since the collars are highly toxic – vets have realized that placing a toxic material directly against your pet’s skin for long periods of time (flea collars have to be worn 24/7 to be effective) is detrimental to your dog’s health.

Donald Whitehead
Donald’s Pet Pages Info Site offers excellent Dog and Cat health information and products.

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Your dog lifts his clawed foot to his head and starts scratching his neck. You think, hmm, he has an itch, glad to see he can get to it. Then, you think, uh, it’s spring now, and I really, really hope he is not scratching to get rid of those nasty black creatures of Satan. So, you bend down, look at the dogs fur, and see flea waste. You immediately go into war mode. Your next few steps will determine what goes on your dog, in your house, and into the air you breath. Chemicals are fast, however, not all chemical products are created equal. And, you may just get your hands on some real junk, for quite a pretty penny. Scientific evidence has shown that fleas are conveniently adapting to the onslaught of chemicals that have been assaulting them in the past few decades. So, whatever you pay for may need to be applied multiple times and in higher concentrations than you ever thought necessary to actually “work”.

Before you decide to engage in chemical warfare with the black beasts, you may want to just take some of the safe, dog shampoo that you bought your pet, and produce a thick lather on his coat. The fleas will suffocate and drown in the foam. This works, no doubt about it. However, fleas didn’t get to be one of the most resilient animals on the planet by getting killed off with one bath. Fleas start laying eggs all over your house as soon as they get some blood out of your canine. So, while the adults may all be dead that were on the dog, there could be some freshly born fleas about to launch and invasion.

Some good natural flea shampoo can take care of the problem of adult fleas. Then you need some diatomaceous earth for fleas to work on the larvae in your carpets.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mary_L

The symptoms of a flea infestation are unmistakable. A dog with a flea infestation will scratch almost constantly, often at areas that fleas seem to favor: the ears, the base of the tail, the belly, and the stifle (the webbing of soft skin between the thigh and the abdomen).

So, if your dog already has fleas, you have two options:

- You can ‘bomb’ the house and yard with a flea-pesticide. These come as foggers (which coat each room, and the yard, in a fine mist of pesticide) and sprays (which are applied manually to each surface throughout the house and yard), and although they’re very effective in killing fleas and eggs, there’s one major drawback: they’re highly toxic to humans, dogs, and the environment. Depending on your priorities, this is probably the quickest solution to a flea problem (and will effectively wipe out the eggs, too) but if you have anyone in the house with allergies or a health condition – including pets! – You might want to think again.

- A more health-friendly alternative is to target the dog with a topical anti-flea solution prescribed by the vet (like Advantage or Revolution), and to rigorously clean the house on a regular basis until the flea problem has gone. This means vacuuming each room thoroughly each day – put a flea collar in with the vacuum bag to kill any fleas that get sucked up – and wash all human and dog bedding in hot water as often as you can (once every day or every two days is recommended). You’ll be able to tell when the problem’s gone because your dog won’t be scratching, and his coat will be clear of flea dirt when you inspect it.

Prevention is definitely the best cure – you should keep your dog’s flea treatments up to date with the use of a calendar, and use a treatment that’s prescribed by the vet. Off-the-shelf treatments are not recommended, since different dogs require different strengths depending on their size, age, and activity levels. A particular benefit of prescribed flea treatment is that most are also designed to prevent other parasites (like mites, ticks, and heartworm) from affecting your dog.

WHAT NOT TO DO ABOUT FLEAS

- Do not use multiple products on your dog – it’ll make him sick, since you’ll be overloading his system with toxins.

- Do not forget to treat all the animals in the house at the same time: cat and dog fleas are interchangeable, and if one animal has fleas, they all will have them, even if some are not displaying the symptoms.

- Flea collars are no longer recommended as a safe option for flea prevention, since the collars are highly toxic – vets have realized that placing a toxic material directly against your pet’s skin for long periods of time (flea collars have to be worn 24/7 to be effective) is detrimental to your dog’s health.

Sara Bijnaam has discovered a comprehensive guide to canine healthcare that’ll allow you to take great care of your dog. She reveals that resource at http://healthyhappydog-bijnaam.blogspot.com

Here you can find more resources about your dog’s health, see http://healthyhappydog-bijnaam.blogspot.com and thanks for reading

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Below are some of the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) on killing dog fleas. Chances are you’ve asked quite a few of them yourself.

Q: What are the more common ways of killing dog fleas?

A: This is a common question usually asked by owners trying to deal with fleas for the first time. Some of the more established methods of killing dog fleas include giving dogs baths using chemicals or oils that suffocate adult fleas and remove flea eggs from their fur, feeding dogs certain foods like garlic and vinegar, applying a variety of topical treatments, and making use of sprays and powders that drastically reduce the flea population in both dog and home.

There is hardly a shortage of options in treating dog fleas, but some may be more effective on your dog than others. If you’re new to the game, you should experiment with a few method to see which one is the best.

Q: My flea treatments don’t seem to work anymore. What happened?

A: There’s a good chance that the fleas you’re currently dealing with have developed some sort of resistance to the products you’ve been using, especially if you’ve been using them exclusively for some time. Don’t panic, though. Just because they have developed an immunity to a certain treatment doesn’t mean they are no longer vulnerable to others.

Mix it up for a while. Try out some alternative remedies; they are plenty for you to choose from. You may even be able to go back to the old treatment after some time and notice that it is, once again, effective.

More Updates here

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Many may believe the crisis is over when they’ve gotten rid of every single flea on the family mutt. Little do they know that a army of fleas are still around, ready and waiting to swarm in on their dog the next opportunity they get. Recognize that eliminating dog fleas doesn’t cease with getting rid of the ones on your dog. After all, you have to look at where those fleas came from originally (yard)…and where else they could be hiding out (house).

This is why flea control for eliminating dog fleas in your present surroundings is equally as crucial as ridding your dog of the fleas – perhaps even more so. In its brief lifetime, a flea may lay hundreds to thousands of eggs. A single flea in the home or yard can cause an entire infestation, leaving your four legged family member receptive to problems sooner than later.

Numerous steps must be taken to prevent this possible dilemma, all of which are directed at treating dog fleas permanently.

Step One: Use a vacuum to remove the fleas from the dog.

When you’ve assured that your dog is flea-free, you should start ridding the home of any and all fleas. Cleaning is always effective, but vacuuming in particular may prove to be the most effective.

Fleas are by nature attracted to a list of things that might indicate a possible host is nearby. Heat, sound, vibrations and such are expected to arouse some activity in flea eggs and entice adult fleas away from hiding.

If all proceeds well, the vibrations made by your vacuum cleaner will stimulate fleas to hatch (a favorable thing, since they could remain dormant in that state until an actual host (i.e. your dog) passes along) and absorb the larvae before they get a opportunity to mature into adulthood. If you’re fortunate, you’ll be able to vacuum a couple of stray adults too.

Remember to always seal and throw the vacuum bag away once you’re finished. Fleas might still be alive and well even after being vacuumed into your cleaner, and could multiply there if you let them be.

Step Two: Chemical warfare.

Naturally, there are times when you have no other option but to bring out the big guns. Regardless of how much cleaning you do, it might never appear to be adequate to altogether eliminate these pests.

There always appear to be a few adults who manage to escape, and a few eggs that manage to endure your efforts. But most, if not all, will perish once exposed to chemicals specifically made for treating dog fleas.

Adulticides and Insect Growth Inhibitors are the most accepted and confided weapons in the war against fleas. The former works by eliminating adult fleas, while the latter yields any left over flea incapable of reproduction, in effect interrupting the flea’s life cycle.

Over and over again, these two have shown that they are not only adequate of flea control for dogs, but also of eliminating the whole flea population if applied correctly.

Find the best prices on flea control for your pets including Frontline flea control and Advantage flea control products.

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Killing Dog Fleas By Cutting Them Off At The Source

You want to know a secret? The best way of killing dog fleas isn’t by killing them. You read that correctly. The best way to get rid of fleas is to keep the little bloodsuckers from being hatched in the first place. Does that sound a bit silly, or perhaps impossible? Just humor me and read on.

I can understand the reluctance to believe. This is normal and healthy to question things you don’t understand or that are new, particularly when it is not clear how your focus on killing dog fleas should be set aside so you can instead focus on flea birth control. Of course it would be great if you could keep the fleas from multiplying and amassing a major army, but wouldn’t it be better use of your time and efforts treating dog fleas that are already attacking your dog and eventually wiping them all out?

Short answer: no.

If you are only focused on killing as many fleas as you can then you will only be partially effective in your war against fleas. You will have a long battle ahead of you. All the while you will be asking your self again and again why is this infestation getting worse instead of better? Eventually you will succumb to battle fatigue while those little bloodsuckers keep sucking your dog dry.

Work with me here. If you take my advice, you and your dog could be flea-less in just a few short days. Why? There is one very important thing you have not thought of in your battle to rid your dog of those bloodsucking pests. That is the typical flea’s rate of reproduction. Just one flea can lay up to 50 eggs in one day. They can lay up to 2000 in their lifetime. Worse still, each of these eggs will only take from two days to a couple of weeks to hatch depending on conditions.

The worst is yet to come. Flea’s eggs are very small. They are only a fraction of the size of an adult flea. This makes them very hard to see with the naked eye. Locating them is almost impossible. Equally stressing is they are difficult to remove. The eggs are typically immune to much of the treatments that were designed to kill the adult flea. What does this mean? It means by the time one flea is finally killed, hundreds more will take its place. Do you still think your only focus should be killing dog fleas?

As stated previously, the best approach to treating dog fleas is to cut off the source by stopping fleas you are fighting now from reproducing. Then and only then can you take control of the situation and start wiping them out faster then they can produce. You must also be able to deal with their remaining eggs. It’s not as difficult a process as you might imagine though. There is what is known as Insect Growth Regulators (IGRs). IGRs basically make it impossible for fleas that are exposed to them to reproduce. This in turn will effectively stop the cycle by preventing future births.

IGRs come in various forms. There are sprays or powders known for their effectiveness of treating dog fleas. Some even contain adulticides to make an effective adult flea killer as well. You get a 1-2 punch in killing the adult flea while ensuring those waiting to hatch won’t produce any offspring of their own.

So to do away with the little buggers for good, I would advocate a much more effective approach than just killing dog fleas by the hundreds. You’ll be far more efficient in controlling the population just by practicing a little birth control — on them.

If you would like more information, please visit my blog at http://Dog-and-Puppy-Training-and-Care.blogspot.com

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